Bancroft x2
AUTHOR:
MAKAYLA BRADEN
PARTNER(S):
My second attempt, and ultimately turnaround, on Bancroft left our group unsuccessful again. Four of us planned to climb one morning regardless of an incoming storm we weren’t sure we could beat. A few of us had turned around on this mountain before, so we were prepared to do so again if need be.
We quickly made our way to the notch where we set up the rappel, myself going down first as I was leading the route out of the notch. Then Ricardo, Louis and James came down last as I was ready to start my lead.
The incoming thunderstorms were lingering and we decided to regroup above the notch. We decided this was our last opportunity to bail and it wasn’t even a great option to begin with, but it was the option.
We faced inwards and daggered our ice axes traversing a steep slope with potential avalanche conditions. Once we got to a safe belay spot we used a cam to secure all our packs to the rock as we transitioned into glissade mode.
In order to descend away and out of avy terrain and the storms quickly we decided this was our best option. We each glissaded one-by-one just to the left of our hairy terrain and then out of harm's way down a natural slide feature. We played around baby James style with a little mixed climb and photo opp before we made the romp back to the cars.
A stellar day out with the best crew and another failed attempt on Bancroft!